Recently, Russian manicures have been trending, but there are a few precautions you should take before deciding to get one or any other treatment in a nail salon.

This blog will explain three primary concerns you should be aware of upon going to the nail salon, and it will also provide solutions to these concerns.

Cuticle damage 

When you get a manicure, the cuticle is often cut down. But, with a Russian manicure, it’s removed completely, and the nails are painted with a thick gel. 

Russian manicures are a dry technique manicure, meaning they buff off part of the nail. They remove the cuticle, which is the protective part of the nail, and repaint it. No water is used for the entire process. Russian manicures have to be done with gloves and without water. Water can spread bacteria, cause infection, and damage the nail. Similarly, because there's such a risk around infection, it's also important to use a nail polish that doesn't run.

You have to be very careful upon getting a Russian manicure because it removes the nails’ protective mechanism against infection. Cuticles are especially important as the nails grow. When the nail grows, it has to pass by the cuticle. The visible nail is called “the nail plate,”  and it grows from the matrix. Once that nail gets long enough, it protrudes off of the edge. This is called the “free edge.”

The free edge first passes through the cuticle, which is a protective flap that prevents the introduction of dirt and bacteria. But, when you cut it, pathogens can get underneath your nails and into your body. Moreover, cutting the cuticle can cause inflammation and impact nail growth. For that reason, some people have had very bad reactions to Russian manicures.

Solution:

You can simply ask your nail technician to push the cuticle back rather than cutting it. If they do cut it, make sure the tools are disinfected and soaked in barbicide or an EPA-registered disinfectant. Make sure there is no water being used, and the nail polish doesn’t seep under the nails. That can cause a lot of irritation as well. Also, make sure you are not being charged for a “Russian manicure” without it truly being one. 

UV exposure from dryers

Did you know that LED dryers increase the chance of melanoma and skin cancers? The LED lights at nail salons are different than the ones we put on our faces because they radiate UV light with an LED light bulb.

In nail salons, there are often UV dryers with ultraviolet light, but the UV light in this dryer is similar to the UV light from the sun. UV light is damaging, and it can increase our risk of skin cancer. So, instead, many nail salons have started to use light-emitting diodes or LED. But, these LED lights still emit UV. Yes, we are exposed to UV light from the sun all the time, and it penetrates into our skin. But, we should reduce our exposure to it as much as possible

UV light can cause cellular changes and DNA damage. DNA is the blueprint that our cells use to replicate themselves and grow. If we damage or mutate that DNA, it can grow back in an unchecked way, leading to cancer. Cancer cells are cells that don't act like other ones, and they grow rapidly. This happens during melanoma, one of the most dangerous types of skin cancer.

So, if we’re sticking our hands into UV light at the nail salon, we’re increasing our UV exposure even more. 

Solution:

While these LED dryers are not likely to do major damage, we want to reduce our exposure to UV radiation as much as possible. The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends “applying a broad spectrum (UVA/UVB) sunscreen to the hands 20 minutes before your hands are exposed to UV light.”

You should always apply sunscreen to your hands, especially when driving, however this precaution does not protect against subungual (under the nail)  squamous cell carcinoma, a rare form of skin cancer. So, in addition to applying sunscreen, you can allow nails to dry naturally. You can also use an air dryer.

 

Hygiene

Sometimes going to the nail salon can potentially expose our nail beds to pathogens.  Nontuberculous mycobacteria is a bacteria  typically found in water and pedicure footbaths. If the mycobacteria enters the bloodstream through microtears from exfoliation or cuticle nipping, the follicles can become infected. 

Secondly, if proper hygiene protocols are not followed, you can also be exposed to paronychia at nail salons. Paronychia is a bacterial (or fungal) infection that occurs around the nails, and it is more likely to happen when the cuticle has been compromised. Paronychia causes painful redness, swelling, and fluid around the cuticle. With severe infections, it may need to be resolved by a doctor as well as oral antibiotics.  But, it can improve with finger soaking or topical antibiotics. 

As mentioned before, paronychia can be caused by trauma to the nail cuticles such as pushing and cutting them back. 

Solution: 

According to a study on mycobacteria and footbaths, it’s helpful to avoid shaving your legs before getting a pedicure to prevent infection. Also, you can make the following observations upon entering a nail salon: Are the stations clean? Does the nail technician wash her hands between clients? Are there dirty tools lying around? In addition, you can inquire how the nail technicians and professionals clean their tools.

Furthermore, Cassandra uses press-on nails as they are more affordable, and they also make it easier to prevent nail damage.