To many, sulfur soap is a tried and true for acne. But, for others, it really dries out the skin. So, does it truly work, and what skin types does it work best for?

How does sulfur work?

One of the reasons sulfur's such a popular ingredient for acne is  the ingredient's anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties. Sulfur helps to combat the acne-causing bacteria known as cutibacterium acne.  Plus, sulfur can help with rosacea. Rosacea is characterized by flushing, redness, and sometimes inflamed, little pustules. 

In some people, rosacea can occur from an abnormal reaction to demodex mites. Demodex mites are naturally occurring fauna within our skin’s microbiome, and they help to remove dead skin cells. However, they can become too numerous or too sensitizing. So, sulfur can help to control the population.

As for acne, sulfur is also comedolytic, meaning it breaks up comedones, blackheads, and whiteheads. “Sulfur eliminates disulfide cysteine bonds between dead skin cells or “corneocytes.” In effect, this promotes the desquamation of the stratum corneum (NIH)."

More simply, sulfur reacts with cystine. Cystine is a key component of keratin, a protein in the skin. Cystine makes keratin rigid. However, when sulfur reacts with cystine, it helps to break up bonds between skin cells and unclog the pores.

Sulfur is also keratolytic, meaning it can act as an exfoliant and cause the area around the acne to dry and peel. That’s why you might notice an improvement in whiteheads and blackheads or “closed comedones” upon using it. 

In fact, medications such as topical sulfacetamide sodium-sulfur are commonly used to treat acne, rosacea, and seborrheic dermatitis. This medicine combines sulfacetamide and sulfur, two ingredients that both stop the growth of bacteria on the skin’s surface. 

What skin types does sulfur work for?

Sulfur has a high pH balance, which can disrupt your skin's protective barrier and allow moisture to evaporate. Conversely, when the skin barrier is compromised, this can also lead to breakouts. So, sulfur’s effectiveness could greatly depend on your skin type.

For sensitive skin, sulfur can work as an alternative to salicylic acid, another exfoliant that breaks bonds between skin cells. And even though sulfur is drying, it can be relatively easy to tolerate. Likewise, it’s not the most potent ingredient. So, it’s typically only effective for blackheads, whiteheads, papules, and pustules. 

Papules and pustules are a form of moderate, inflammatory acne. Pustules are larger and have more residue. They can also have a yellow or white head.  Like whiteheads and blackheads, papules and pustules happen when the pores get clogged and hardened.

With pustules and papules, there is a mild inflammatory response from the skin, which might include redness and tenderness. However, the reaction is not comparable to cystic acne, a condition that cannot be treated with sulfur or common OTC ingredients. 

Should I use sulfur in a mask or a soap?

Because sulfur is already drying, sulfur soaps can be even more drying since they also include surfactants, compounds in soap that remove oil from the skin when used with water. For instance, black soaps, a sulfur containing cleanser, can be drying for some. However, it can be very nourishing when it includes shea butter or other moisturizing ingredients. 

Black soaps typically combine the ashes of plantain skins, palm leaves, cocoa powder, palm oil, coconut oil, and shea butter. The ashes add a sulfur component to the soap. African black soap has been used for centuries. So, for many, yes, it is helpful.

However, it’s best to use formulas that also have an abundance of moisturizing ingredients, and truthfully, this is a good rule of thumb for any sulfur-containing soap. For African Black Soap specifically, using shea a little shea butter afterwards along with a hydrating lotion can also be super helpful for dry skin types. 

Moreover, African black soap has a high pH, which can cause dryness. As mentioned before, the high pH of these soaps may lead to dry skin. And because of the surfactants, lipids can be further pulled from the stratum corneum and washed away during a shower. 

There are a variety of sulfur containing soaps on the market. You might notice how the more potent ones smell like eggs. Furthermore, some sulfur products can be harsh and drying while some can be effective. But, results will depend on your skin type. 

There are also gentle, more cosmetic body cleansers that contain sulfur. And although sulfur might not be the main ingredient, you still get that component while making sure the skin gets hydration.

Zitsticka Cushion Cleanse - $35

Another option is a mask with sulfur in it. If the mask includes hydrating and moisturizing ingredients, it could be a good fit for dry skin.  On the other hand, you'll want to avoid bentonite clay masks even though they contain sulfur too. Another way to reduce dryness is a sulfur spot treatment. Spot treatments are only used on lesions. 

Murad Rapid Relief Acne Sulfur Mask- $44 

Inkey List Succinic Acne Treatment - $14

 

Combined with 2% Sulfur and 1% Salicylic Acid, this targeted treatment will help shrink blemishes and blackheads whilst remaining gentle on the skin.

 

Blemish Buster Sulfur Spot Treatment Sonya Dakar - $35

 

Can sulfur help acne when ingested in food?

Your body needs sulfur to build and repair your DNA and protect your cells from damage. So, while eating foods high in sulfur like broccoli, cabbage, and legumes may not directly improve acne, it will contribute to your overall well-being, which of course, boosts the skin barrier.