The thought of personal care products containing chemicals seems unpalatable yet inevitable in today’s world. However, what does the word “chemical” even mean, and is it truly something to fear? To begin with, it’s important to understand that the word “chemical” is not synonymous with “toxicant.” No, “chemical” does not mean toxic. Of course, this doesn’t stop brands from fear-mongering and profiting from public anxieties. Why would it?

What is a chemical?

Everything is a chemical, but this is not the same as saying “everything is toxic.” This is to say that everything has a chemical composition. For instance, water has the chemical structure, H20. Hence, two hydrogen atoms and one oxygen atom compose the chemical structure of water. Even the simplest living organisms have chemical structures. While “chemical” has been used as a conversational term for “poison,” this is not the reality. So, why the “chemical-free” labels?

Most of the time, brands are referring to “toxicants,” but instead use the emotionally charged and colloquial  word “chemical.”  In a technical sense, the word is more of a perspective. The FTC (Federal Trade Commission) has yet to establish a definition around the word chemical. So, there is no consensus about what the phrase “chemical-free” actually means. Ergo, brands can make liberal claims about this without fear of legal action. At any rate, what would the FTC choose as the definition of “chemical-free” — free of matter?

On the other hand, the definition of a toxin is clear. So, you’re actually less likely to see “toxin-free” or “non-toxic” labels? Because could this be guaranteed? According to the code of federal regulations,  “toxic shall apply to any substance (other than a radioactive substance) which has the capacity to produce personal injury or illness to man through ingestion, inhalation, or absorption through any body surface.” So, could a label such as “non-toxic” truly be guaranteed? 

But, just a second —  before you throw all of your personal care products in the trash, let’s discuss how toxicity actually works. We’ll also use the commonly used ingredient, cocamide DEA, to make further sense of the word.

What is toxicity?

Toxicity is a measurement. “It’s the degree to which a substance can damage an organism.” But, damage can range from contact dermatitis to chemical burns.  “Toxicity can refer to the effect on a whole organism, such as an animal, bacterium, or plants, and the toxicity of materials are dose-dependent.”

Upon a certain dosage, even water can have toxicity. But, some substances become toxic at smaller doses than others. To provide another example, cocamide DEA, a commonly used ingredient, shouldn't be used in concentrations over 10%. 

What does cocamide DEA mean?

“Cocamide DEA is a surfactant made by chemically altering the chemical composition of certain fatty acids in coconut oil with diethanolamine. The result is a viscous, amber-colored liquid used as a foaming agent and emulsifier.” 

When combined with water, surfactants are highly effective at removing debris and oil from surfaces. Sulfates are also surfactants. 

In addition, "DEA (diethanolamine) and DEA compounds are used to make cosmetics creamy or sudsy. DEA also acts as a pH adjuster, counteracting the acidity of other ingredients.” More simply, it can make products less acidic. “DEA is mainly found in moisturizers and sunscreens, while cocamide and lauramide DEA are found in soaps, cleansers, and shampoos.”

You'll normally see DEA listed on ingredient labels in one or several the following ways. 

• Cocamide DEA
• Cocamide MEA
• DEA-Cetyl Phosphate
• DEA Oleth-3 Phosphate
• Lauramide DEA
• Linoleamide MEA
• Myristamide DEA
• Oleamide DEA
• Stearamide MEA
• TEA-Lauryl Sulfate
• Triethanolamine

However, some brands have promised customers that they will not use the ingredient due to some research defining cocamide DEA as an allergen or even hazardous.  While it's true that some skin types can have a cocamide DEA allergy, especially if an eczema diagnosis is involved, certain skin types could also have a citrus allergy. Citrus, an ingredient found in nature, could also cause contact dermatitis and damage certain skin types at certain dosages. 

“Contact dermatitis is inflammatory, and it is caused by chemicals or metal ions (contact irritants) that exert toxic effects without inducing a T-cell response or by small reactive chemicals (contact allergens) that modify proteins and induce innate and adaptive immune responses.”

However, some have said that cocamide DEA particularly exerts a toxic effect. But, for everyone? Some have even claimed that DEAs can cause cell mutation, but this assertion has not been qualified by a certain dosage. And moreover, the research on this claim is not very robust at all. 

At any rate,  the CIR Expert Panel concluded that DEAs are safe in rinse-off products and in leave-on products at concentrations of 10% or less. 

At the same time, it is worth noting that the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Board states that DEAs can react with other ingredients to create harmful substances called nitrosamines. However, N-nitrosamines are banned compounds in cosmetic products, and this is why cosmetic chemistry and regulations exists.

And in fact, some statutes such as California proposition 65 states that labels must state DEA’s presence, and overtime, this has actually posed a challenge for some brands.

For instance, there has been recent controversy with hair care line Mielle due the proposition. The brand faced an “intent to sue” because of the ingredient, DEA. However, the intent to sue wasn’t based on its presence. It was based on the label's lack of warning. The label did not say it was there. In the filing, Mielle was among a list of other brands, including Patrick Ta. 

Across TikTok, customers are making an increased amount of claims such as “Mielle shampoo and even the product line itself causes hair loss, namely due to the presence of DEA.”

On the contrary, it is contentious to say that Mielle products themselves cause hair loss from the scalp because a) the strengthening shampoo is the only DEA-containing product and b) the product will be washed off. 

Hypothetically, some hair formulas (not Mielle specifically) could cause dryness and may lead to breakage (the shaft breaking, not the root). They could even cause irritation, scratching, or exacerbated eczema or psoriasis, which could potentially but not necessarily, damage the scalp or “hair follicle.” 

Thus, while it is correct to say that for some people (emphasis on “some people”), cocamide DEA could cause scalp irritation, it is incorrect to say that, without a doubt, cocamide DEA will cause scalp irritation when integrated into a larger formula. 

To provide further substantiation,  in a 2016 study, out of 1767 patients tested, 18 (1%) presented with an allergic reaction to cocamide DEA, all of them at least with hand dermatitis. Twelve patients had (past) occupational exposure to cocamide DEA (overexposure) and 7 already had atopic dermatitis or eczema. 

The study concluded that “cocamide DEA allergy is relatively rare, despite frequent use.”

So, to say that these hair products cause “people's hair to fall out” comes across as a fallacy. This is not to invalidate anyone's experience. This is just to address a pitfall. 

Hair loss is losing hair from the scalp, which is alopecia. Thus, the customers making these claims have assumed a very large burden of proof and should probably consult with their dermatologist. 

 

If you have a coconut allergy, a DEA allergy, or would simply like to avoid DEAs,  here are a few hair products from The Ordinary that do not contain these.  If you have tightly coiled hair, it could be especially helpful to pair or mix The Ordinary's Hair Serums with these. 

The Ordinary 4% Sulphate Cleanser for Hair and Body - $9.20

The Ordinary Behentrimonium Chloride 2% Conditioner - $9.20

Cover photo cred: Parents