Mushrooms in Skincare: Is This Trending Ingredient Myth or Mighty?

Why is everybody talking about mushrooms in skincare? Do they actually work, or is it just better to eat them? From mushroom coffee to mushroom serums, we’ll discuss whether mushroom products are really worth the hype.

Do mushrooms work for anti-aging?

Having its therapeutic origins in traditional Chinese medicine, mushrooms are abundant in antioxidants, selenium, and vitamin C. Mushrooms are also adaptogenic, which means they can help us to adapt or overcome stress. Furthermore, when sunlight contacts the skin, mushrooms help with vitamin D synthesis. Vitamin D helps with calcium absorption in the body and maintaining our bones.

Of course, all of these effects help our skin to glow. But, what makes mushrooms stand out is the active compound or amino acid, ergothioneine (ERGO). By a long shot, mushrooms are the leading dietary source of ERGO. Our bodies do not synthesize ERGO. So, we can only get it from food.

ERGO is a powerful micronutrient. But, a 2016 study demonstrated how ERGO levels in the blood decline as we get older. It also showed how ERGO levels seem to decline even faster in those with cognitive impairment. Thus, this study also makes evident that higher ERGO levels have been associated with slowing down aging in the body.

Furthermore, ergothioneine is a very powerful antioxidant that does not decompose upon being cooked. So, for the most part, mushrooms retain their raw nutritional benefit when incorporated into dishes.

But unfortunately, Americans consume less ERGO (1⋅1 mg/day) than others. These lower intakes were shown to coincide with a greater prevalence of chronic neurological diseases associated with aging and lower life expectancies.

These associations have led scientists to hypothesize that the American diet may not have enough ERGO to sufficiently protect against the chronic diseases of aging. Plus, the typical American diet is already low in fruits and vegetables and high in carbohydrates.

However, about 63% of Americans drink coffee on a daily basis. While this is not necessarily a silver lining, this does make mushroom coffee a potentially convenient option for ERGO intake. Mushroom coffee is normally made from medicinal mushrooms rather than regular mushrooms for cooking. Mushrooms like chaga, lion's mane, reishi, cordyceps, king trumpet, and turkey tail are commonly used in coffee mixes.

Mushroom coffee can be described as "nutty" or "earthy," but many don’t notice the taste at all. However, there is one caveat. While mushrooms do have the aforementioned benefits, much of the research was done on eating mushrooms, not drinking them in coffee.

Anecdotally though, many people have reported better sleep, more energy, improved focus, and reduced inflammation from the habitual consumption of mushroom coffee.

When applied topically, do mushrooms work on the skin?

When applied topically, reishi and shiitake extracts can help your skin retain moisture because they have polysaccharides or beta-glucans. Beta-glucans help your skin to retain moisture, and this definitely helps with antiaging.

Photo cred: Cellbone Technology, Inc.

Specific mushrooms are also high in copper peptides, and some say applying peptides can help your body produce more collagen, a substance that keeps your skin plump. At the minimum, peptides will help the skin to retain moisture.

Many mushrooms, especially shiitake, contain sulfur too. Topically applying ingredients with sulfur may reduce acne due to its antifungal and antibacterial properties. Essentially, it can help prevent the growth of p acnes bacteria.

Sulfur also has keratolytic effects. Keratolytics help soften the skin’s keratin. Keratin is a primary component of the skin’s outermost layer, and keratolytic substances also ease exfoliation. Likewise, it can be very helpful for graceful aging and dry skin.

Next, mushroom extracts have anti-inflammatory properties, making them especially beneficial for conditions like rosacea and acne. They can even help with premature aging. When the skin barrier is inflamed, it is less resistant to damage and photoaging. But, when you apply an anti-inflammatory ingredient, this can help build and protect the skin barrier.

Here are some skincare products with mushrooms that Cassandra especially likes.

Dermalogica Invisible Physical Defense Sunscreen SPF 30 - $48

This formula includes a mushroom complex that helps to soothe skin and reduce UV-induced redness and dryness.