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Polymers in Skincare: Plastics or Real Benefits?

What is a polymer?

A polymer is a large molecule composed of chemically-linked “monomers.” Monomers are smaller molecules that come together during a process called “polymerization.” 

During polymerization, monomers link together into a polymer chain. Several living organisms are composed of polymers, but so are many man-made materials. 

For example, did you know that your hair, nails, and DNA are all polymers?

 

Photo cred: Composites Knowledge Network

 

Are polymers good in skincare formulas?

As mentioned before, both natural and synthetic polymers are present in skincare. For instance, hyaluronic acid (natural) is a polymer, but polyvinyl alcohol (synthetic) is too.


Are polymers plastics? Is polyvinyl alcohol okay for sensitive skin?

So many people worry about microplastics in skincare, how it affects their skin, and how it affects the environment. While, yes, polymers can be used to make plastics, not all polymers are plastics.

Going back to the example of polyvinyl alcohol vs hyaluronic acid, PVA is actually a plastic while HA is not. 


Why would I use it on my skin then?

Well, when it comes to how healthy using a synthetic or plastic polymer is, you have to consider its biodegradability. For instance,  PVA breaks down into non-toxic components when exposed to moisture and microorganisms. 

And in reality, many polymers are generally considered good skincare ingredients due to the following benefits.  

Skincare formula enhancement: Like PVA, some polymers add texture, stability, and emollient-like properties to skincare. They can also thicken the formula.

Hydration: Polymers like hyaluronic acid attract and retain moisture. Meaning the skin can stay hydrated for longer. Hyaluronic acid is a polymer because repeating units of sugar molecules compose it. Glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine form long chains and create HA's polymer structure. 

Barrier protection: Plus, they can protect the skin from the environment and keep moisture inside. That way, the skin can continue to produce ceramides and fatty acids on its own. 

For instance, this water-based formula includes a polymer system that primes the skin. 


Niod Photography Fluid Opacity 8% 

 $43



Niod Photography Fluid Formula details courtesy of DECIEM and Estee Lauder

Caramel Saccharides

The natural tan tone of the formulation is entirely from natural caramel which is dissolved in sea polysaccharides that completely prevent drying and unevenness common with caramel application on the skin.

Hydrophilic Polymer System

A suspension of perfectly-spherical hydrophilic polymers offers colour stability and light refraction to minimize visible skin imperfections that colour formulations generally highlight further (which is why makeup often makes the skin look older).

Filmogenic Polymers

A studied suspension of long-chain filmogenic polymers prevents evaporation and offers visible evenness, consistency and hydration throughout the day.


Isntree Hyaluronic Water Essence

$28.90

This formula includes 8 different types of polymer chains or hyaluronic acid, creating an exceptionally hydrating formula.